Here are some changes and updates to the third edition (January 1990) of Lonely Planet╒s ╥Turkey - a travel survival kit.╙ The new edition of my guide is at the printer╒s, and should be in the bookstores by the end of the summer or early in the autumn. If you have questions or comments about Lonely Planet Publications, my guidebook, or travel in Turkey, please post them on The Independent Traveler board, or e-mail them to ╥TBros╙ (America Online). I also have Turkish-language audio cassettes to help you learn to pronounce this unfamiliar language.
╤Tom Brosnahan, Author
Changes & Updates
Currency Exchange: Most banks now resist changing travellers cheques, preferring cash; or they charge hefty commissions. The best choice for fast and uncomplaining service seems to be Akbank.
You can use your bank teller machine card (ATM card) or credit card to withdraw cash in Turkey. Cash machines are located in major cities and tourist areas, and they give information in four languages. The cash is Turkish liras, of course.
It is now possible to change travellers checks at PTTs (post offices, p. 36), at least in tourist areas. As PTTs are open longer than banks, this is a convenience, though the PTTs charge 1% or 2% commission on the transaction.
Student Card Discounts: The credit-card-sized International Student Identity Card is once more good for discounts (usually 50%) on admissions to museums in Turkey. The Youth International Educational Exchange (YIEE) card issued by the Federation of International Youth Travel Organisations (FIYTO) to persons under 26 years of age is even better, often getting you in for free. The cards can be bought for about US$5.50 (ú3) at the Yƒcelt Hostel next to Sancta Sophia in Istanbul, or at Genìtur nearby. Peter Brown and Jacqui Airey of London write that ╥Kamil Koì bus company gave us a 10% discount on production of the cards, with no haggling involved.╙
Charters to Greece: A charter tour operator from Athens has written to say that on USIT Youth Student Travel charters from London to Athens there is no penalty for going to Turkey as well (see pp. 83-84), and that the rule against leaving Greece is often not enforced. I hope he's right. Check and double-check with your charter operator about this before you buy.
Visas Required for British Subjects: British subjects visiting Turkey must have visas, obtainable at the border for ú5 and good for 90 days. Keep one ú5 note (British, not Scottish) with you so you╒ll have the correct amount.
Transport: The government added new taxes to motor fuels, so bus transport is now about twice as expensive as indicated in my guide (if the guide says a ticket costs US$2, it now costs about US$4). Similarly, fuel prices for cars are higher. Normal costs about 70c per litre (US$2.65 per US gallon), Sƒper about 80c per litre (US$3.02 per US gallon), Kursunsuz (lead-free) about 85c (US$3.21); Dizel (diesel) is about 55c per litre (US$2.08 per US gallon).
Airlines: Larry Bailey of Huntington Beach, Calif. writes that Turkish Airlines offers a 50% senior discount on domestic flights for those 60 and older. A new domestic airline, THT (Tƒrk Hava Tasimaciligi), operated by Turkish Airlines (THY), operates flights to many smaller cities not served by THY.
Beware of Outrageous Telephone Charges! I made a 10-minute call from my hotel in Konya to my home in Boston. It cost US$60--that╒s US$6 per minute! I howled at the reception clerk, but he wouldn╒t budge, saying that the PTT heaps taxes and surcharges on international calls. To avoid, this insanity, use a telekart (see p. 45) or big phone tokens (bƒyƒk jeton) to place a quick call, and have the other person call you back.
Istanbul
Safety: Once extremely safe, Istanbul is slowly becoming like anyother big city. Beware of pickpockets and purse-snatchers. Armed robberies are still very rare, but take simple precautions anyway.
Phone Numbers: All Istanbul phone numbers which begin with ╥1╙ have been changed; they now all begin with ╥2╙ instead. Many phone numbers have changed in other cities as well, and will continue to change for several years as the PTT implements its new equipment.
δstiklal Caddesi: This major thoroughfare is now a beautiful pedestrian street served by a new tramway which runs from Taksim Square to Tƒnel Square and back; the fare is about 35ó. It╒s usually very crowded, however.
Dolmabahìe Palace: Two writers from Connecticut warn that one must plan a good half day to see Dolmabahìe: "We got there at 9:15 am and waited in line for two hours before getting in for the one-hour tour with a guide who was worthless!" The line should be shorter in winter and spring, but the guides may not have improved. Incidentally, the palace no longer closes for lunch from noon to 1:30 pm.
Museum of Contemporary Art: The old Feshane (fez-factory) near the Eyƒp Sultan Camii (p. 146) was restored and opened as a brand-new museum, the éagli Sanatlar Mƒzesi, with permanent as well as changing exhibits.
Cagaloglu Hamami (p. 133): Robert Widinski of Mill Valley, Ca. writes: "Avoid the massage or 'deluxe treatment.' They are more interested in getting more money out of you than in satisfying you with relaxation; massages (in both men's and women's sections) are short and inexperienced."
Getting Around: A new free tram operates from Aksaray and Laleli along Ordu Caddesi and Divan Yolu to Sultanahmet and Sirkeci Station. Also, an underground train goes from Aksaray to the city walls along Vatan Caddesi.
South of the Sea of Marmara
éanakkale: I've had a complaint about overcharging at the Bizim Entellektƒel Restaurant. Be sure to ask prices before you order.
There is now a separate terminal (p. 262) for dolmuses to Troy; they no longer operate from the main bus terminal. To find the dolmus terminal, walk southeast on Demircioglu Caddesi (the main street), and when you come to a "T" intersection turn right (southwest). A few hundred metres along the road, to the right just before a bridge, is the dolmus station.
Aegean Turkey
Bergama: A new middle-range hotel has opened, the 18-room Hotel Efsane (that's 'eff-sah-NEH,' tel 12936), Izmir Caddesi 86. Rates are US$20 single, US$30 double, US$38 triple, breakfast included.
Kusadasi: There's a new bus station on the outskirts of town, so the "Bus Station" location on the map (pp. 308-309) and in "Orientation" on p. 307 is no longer accurate. Dolmuses run from downtown to the Otogar, about two km.
"The CafÄ-Bar Munich, just off δstiklal Caddesi (the street with the Hotel Akman) serves very good pizzas and pasta," writes a reader.
Another reader likes the Pension àz Erim (tel 15076), Camiatik Mahallesi, Gƒvercin Sokak 15, in a new group of pensions "straight up the hill on the road that is perpendicular to the Otogar; they are equidistant from the Otogar, Lady Beach [Kadinlar Denizi] and the town." A room with private bath (hot water) is US$5 single, US$10 double.
Two Norwegian readers comment that àlmez Tour (tel (636) 18035 or 17696) offers a 20% student discount on boat tickets to Samos; show a student ID, or your passport (if it says you're a student).
Pamukkale: Halley Hotel in Pamukkale KÜyƒ (see p. 326) has a new building with 18 rooms, all with private bath, central heat and a restaurant. In general, there are lots of new two- and three-star hotels at Pamukkale, all built within the last two years! Unfortunately, they are replacing good, cheap little pensions. There╒s also an admission charge of several dollars to the area of the travertines and ruins, collected at a booth on the access road.
Egirdir: Several readers have visited this beautiful town at the edge of a lake, 36 km east of Isparta (p. 396). An English reader writes, "There are plenty of reasonably-priced pensions to stay in, especially on the Green Island (Yesilada). In the town there are more expensive hotels. There are plenty of restaurants in the area as it is very rich with fish, lobsters and shrimps. You can swim in the lake or take boats out. Some fishermen will even let you go out with them. In the town there is a castle to visit." It is indeed a beautiful place, nothing to do but relax, eat, sleep, walk, swim and think. The 4th edition of my guidebook, due out this autumn, will have full details of beautiful Egirdir!
Bodrum: "The Palmiye Patisserie, near the castle and town center on the yacht marina, serves the best cakes I tasted in Turkey and good NescafÄ and even breakfast," writes a lady from the Netherlands.
"The Baraz Hotel at the seaside is lovely, clean and cheap, but the Halikarnas Disco keeps everyone in town awake until 3 am, sometimes 5 am. We left Bodrum and that lovely hotel in order to get some sleep!╙
Mediterranean Turkey
Antalya: One reader who stayed at the Turban Adalya Oteli says that noise from nearby restaurants kept him from getting a good night's sleep. There are lots more good, charming pensions in Kaleiìi in all price ranges. New top-end hotels include the fabulous Sheraton Voyager and the Falez, between the Archaeological Museum and Konyaalti beach at the western end of town, and the lavish Ramada Renaissance Resort about 36 km south of town at Beldibi.
Central Anatolia
Ankara: All Ankara telephone numbers which used to begin with ╥1╙ now begin with ╥4╙ instead. (Why do they do this to me?)
Ankara's brand-new, huge otogar (bus station) may be open by the time you arrive. It's about four km west of the center near the intersection of the Konya and Eskisehir highways.
Konya: "The best lokum [Turkish Delight] shop we found in Turkey is Yiba in Konya's Otogar. Don't miss it!" writes an Israeli reader. (The best I had on my recent trip was in Afyon, famed for its rich clotted cream. You can get lokum with clotted cream, chocolate, the usual variety of nuts, etc.)
Two young female Australian readers had a bad experience at the Saray Oteli on Mevlana Caddesi when one of the staff attempted to enter their room with a key. The Saray was included in earlier editions of my book, but was dropped for the current edition. [This shows the value of having the most up-to-date edition!] The readers moved to the Konya Oteli (p. 456) and had an enjoyable stay.
Ihlara: A Dutch reader reports that "there are two restaurants in the canyon (p. 459-461), about half-way. There is also one in the village of Belisirama in the canyon, so you don't need to bring food on the hike." There are now two pensions here, with more to follow, and good daily dolmus service to Aksaray.
Black Sea Coast
Trabzon: The Russian Bazaar down the hill from Atatƒrk Alani at éÜmlekìi, on the main road across from the harbour, is fascinating, a 500 metre-long flea market of improbable items, all very cheap.
Sumela Monastery: Two Italian travelers write: "There is an unpaved road that gets really near the top (only 10 minutes' walk)." Admission to the National Park costs 50ó, to the monastery US$2. Parts of the monastery are closed for restoration.
Eastern Anatolia
Note: Avoid travel to any areas covered in pp. 541 to 570 in the guidebook because of Kurdish insurgency. For latest information, check with your home government.
Adiyaman/Kahta: An oil boom has filled many of the hotels in these two towns. Reserve ahead if possible, or go up Nemrut via Malatya.
Sanliurfa: Two young women write to recommend the Hotel Sƒmer (tel 32532), KÜprƒbasi, Belediye Yani (next to City Hall), run by a helpful man named Nuri. Clean rooms with hot showers cost US$5 per person. I've had recommendations for the Sƒmer from other readers as well.
Kars/Ani: With the collapse of the Soviet Union, conditions at Ani (pp. 587-588) are more relaxed. Photos are OK everywhere on the site now as is walking everywhere. The tourist office touted minibus tour is US$6 but only allows two hours at a site that begs a picnic. The tourist office has moved, by the way. Ask at your hotel for the new location.
